Tuesday, May 27, 2008

not an update

Oh, I'm no good at this blogging business. I will try to catch up soon, but that will probably happen once I'm in Geneva. We only have a week and a half left here, and I have a list of things I want to do in Paris before I leave, which trumps blogging.

However, lists make me feel like I'm accomplishing something, so here's a list of what I want to blog about, eventually:

1) Nice, Vence, Menton, Tourettes-sur-Loup, Monaco

2) Florence (subsections for: art museums, David (gets his own section), gelato, cat-calls)

3) The stress of doing research in Paris (lack of libraries)

4) The Barber of Seville at Opera Bastille

5) Our visit to a mosque

6) How much more I like French people nowadays

7) How my host family is always M.I.A.

8) This one puppy in Florence I almost stole (just kidding, that's the whole story)

I'll try harder this summer, I promise.

Friday, May 16, 2008

cultural events

So for this program, CUPA, the Center for University Programs Abroad, gives us 200 euros to spend as "cultural money". If we have any of those 200 euros left at the end of the trip, we have to give them back to CUPA. So far, I have used the money on dance classes, a tour of the Palais Garnier, the entrance into the Institut du Monde Arabe (Institute of the Arab World), the train ride to a cool museum in Reuil-Malmais, and the admission price for a French movie. My next 3 planned events sound fantastic.

1) Champagne tasting cruise on the Seine (in the evening! on a bateau-mouche) on Monday night with several other ladies from the program

2) Soccer game - the last of the regular season before World Cup qualifiers, between France and Colombia

3) To spend the last little bit of money, hopefully a 10-euro walking tour in Montmartre or the Marais district one of these coming weekends.

Can't wait!

Wednesday, May 14, 2008

Palais Garnier

After we got back from Barcelona, we had one day in Paris before leaving for Nice. So Megan and I went on a guided tour at the Palais Garnier.

The Palais Garnier holds the famous "Phantom of the Opera" Opera House which is no longer, in fact, used for operas due to lack of space (they simply can't accomodate the number of people who normally attend the opera, so now they are held at Opera Bastille). The Palais Garnier now hosts mostly ballet and modern dance performances.

The Palais is beautiful and extremely gilded. You can see the front of it on a post I made earlier, when we went to the ballet there. It was commissioned by Napoleon III, who had recently endured an attempted assassination at the Opera Bastille, the other Opera House. He decided he needed a safer place to view his operas, and had an architectural contest, which Charles Garnier won at the age of only 32. It was completed in 1874.

This looks a bit like the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles.


The tour guide explained the many different entrances into the Opera, which depended on the social status of the guest. Unfortunately, Napoleon III died before the Opera House was completed, so he never even got the chance to use his special kingly (emperor-ly?) entrance. As a result, they never built it! The walls are just covered with plain white plaster.

Another fun fact - because the chandelier was lit by candles and it was so difficult to lower and lift it (it weighs 6 tons!), it was impossible to turn out the lights during performances. So people didn't pay attention to the performance as much as they paid attention to EACH OTHER. That incredibly heavy chandelier fell once, killing one person. That accident was actually the inspiration for "Phantom of the Opera". Also, back in the day, the Opera took hours and hours, because the guests would have a huge dinner during intermission.

My favorite part of the Opera Garnier was the Chagall painting that surrounds the main chandelier. It was only put in place in 1964, and the installation was quite a scandal. People complained that it clashed with the rest of the Opera House, and I think they're right. But it clashes in a good way! It's so bright and colorful, and pays homage to many composers, musicians, dancers, works of art, and places in Paris. Take a look.




I think it's great. But then again, I love Chagall.

Tuesday, May 13, 2008

oh host family

My host-father just:
1) Came home unexpectedly after saying he was going off to the summer house with the rest of the family for 2 weeks;
2) Was shocked that there was still water all over the kitchen floor (even though I told him about it days ago and he tried to help me fix it but it didn't work);
3) Mentioned to me, in context completely unrelated to it, "the bathroom door that I never close, which is so impolite to do in France." Thanks for mentioning that to me AFTER 7 WEEKS OF STAYING HERE! Also, he has been home a grand total of maybe 8 days this whole time I've been here. What does he know?!

Oy vey. What a host-dad, what a host-dad.

Did I mention that after the 2nd time I asked them to do my laundry at their country house (because the laundry machine here broke) he requested that I not ask them to wash my jeans "so often"? ONCE for one pair and TWICE for another IN 7 WEEKS?! Oh, Europe makes America look so fresh and clean. People just wear jeans for weeks and weeks here. I don't get it. Washers are readily available, people! Oh, Europe.

Sunday, May 11, 2008

laundry is so easy in the states

Quick story.

My mom told me that when she was in college, she learned German only from female professors and so when she lived in Germany for a couple months it was at first very difficult for her to understand men when they spoke German to her. I think that's the reason why I have a hard time understanding my host father - I have only ever had female French professors!

My host father attempted to fix our washing machine a couple days ago. The next day, he and my host mother left for their summer home, to stay there (again) for another few weeks. Unfortunately, I have a good feeling that he exacerbated the laundry machine problem, since now the kitchen is half-covered in water. I thought it might evaporate, but it just keeps on a-coming. I called him today and he tried to explain to me over the phone which little knobs to turn under the sink. Can you imagine?! I barely know those words in ENGLISH let alone FRENCH. It's hard enough speaking French on the phone, when you can't see people's mouths moving. And my host father doesn't understand the concept of using simpler language when I don't understand certain words. He just repeats them over and over again and then says the stuff I DO understand in English. Oh, dear. Anyway, hopefully this water will stop coming out of the washing machine and filling up the kitchen. I'm leaving wet footprints all over the apartment. Due to the washing machine problems, I've been washing all my clothes by hand, only asking my host family to wash my clothes at their summer home twice (since it takes them a week or so to even bring my clothes back - not worth it). Woohoo! Laundry problems!

Espagne

OK ALEX I know this is not up-to-date. You've encouraged me, well done!

First, Barcelona: April 25th-29th

Barcelona was such a sunny contrast to cloudy, rainy Paris. It immediately improved all of our moods, and all we wanted to do was be outside all of the time. Thankfully, everything in the old city of Barcelona was within walking distance. Our hostel was in a perfect location, just off of Los Ramblas, which is a main street, and not too far from the water either. I bought at 2-day tourist bus pass and did both the Northern and Southern loop, visiting the Sagrada Familia and spotting other Gaudi creations all through the city. We also saw the Olympic stadium, which wasn't as exciting.

The Sagrada Familia was incredible. When Megan first saw it, she said, "It looks like it's melting', which is in fact true. It looks unlike any Catholic church I have ever seen. It resembles a sandcastle, or an underwater palace for mermen - very Little Mermaid-esque, really. Half of the church's exterior looks a bit aged and dark, while the new part looks like it is made out of sandstone! It's unfinished and it has been said that it probably won't be completed until 80 years from now, since it's funded only by anonymous donations and by visitors' admission fees. What's amazing is that Gaudi never saw and will never see his project completely realized, yet he devoted the last 15 years of his life to planning it. And now, the rest of the construction is being done according to his blueprints but is also using some more modern technology to modify his work. (Oh no! Ethical dilemmas!)



The inside was also beautiful.


I liked how on the bus tour, our audioguide pointed out other Gaudi architecture all across the city. The architecture, in general, in Barcelona, is a really interesting mix of new and old. I'm glad we took the bus tour, because it would have been difficult to get a real sense of the city otherwise.

We were so surprised by how friendly everyone was in Barcelona. Honestly, we never spoke to one actual Barcelonian other than our hostel clerks, but all the tourists were so fun! We had two nice British girls living in our hostel room, we met Australians and Irish tourists and one fellow American (a 17-yr old heading off to Princeton next year), and many more. It was so nice just to talk with other people our age about what we were all doing in different corners of Europe. So many people had taken a couple of months off from work or school to travel - it seems like a very European thing to do. Jealous!

The marketplace was probably my favorite part of Barcelona. We visited the Boqueria marketplace which was absolutely packed with bright fruits, cheap and fresh fruit juice, beautiful assortments of candy and candied fruit, and lots of meat and fish. I ate a delicious lunch of Rasberry-Pineapple juice (fresh), organic roasted vegetables with rice (amazing) and a couple jellied/candied/dried fruits and chocolate.

Just look at this! Yum!


The food in Barcelona was incredible. I ate paella almost every day. I could eat paella every day for the rest of my life. We also tried a tapas bar once! Katie and I tried an octopus dish, which was delicious. We spent almost 3 hours at the restaurant our first night in Barcelona, and in the end, it only cost us 20 euros each! We had 2 pitchers of Sangria, appetizers, a main dish, and dessert. What a deal! Those kinds of deals simply do not exist in Paris. This restaurant was an A+. If anyone goes to Barcelona sometime soon, find Les Quinze Nits (yes, the name is in French, but it's Spanish-Mediterranean cuisine).

Anyway, Barcelona was wonderful; definitely a success.

The Palais Garnier will probably be next, followed by Nice and the rest of Cote d'Azur.

Thursday, May 8, 2008

just a taste

I HAVE MY COMPUTER BACK. AND MY LIFE. AND MY SANITY.

So much has happened since the last time I wrote in here. I would really like to catch up but I know that I just won't be able to do it quite as thoroughly as I would hope. When I have time, I'll write about Barcelona, the Palais Garnier, Nice, Vence, Menton, Tourettes-sur-Loup, and Monaco (yes, we went to Monaco for 2 hours). But here's just a little taste of the pictures and stories to come.

Check out these cuts of meat. Barcelona marketplace. Who can spot the bull testicles? How about the tongues?

Nice had some of the best seafood I have ever had. Seafood pizza - le pizza des fruits de mer. Delicieux! (Mussels, shrimp, octopus).

Check out that blue! Cote d'Azur!

More to come.